Chowder ( chou'der, n. [ Fr. Chaudiere, pot], a dish consisting of fresh fish, clams, etc., stewed with vegetables, often with milk. (Webster's)

Chowder's history is not as well defined as other culinary traditions. The first written recipe did not appear until the mid- 1800's, although the word chowder is found in diaries and journals before that time. Chowder undoubtedly originated in a fishing community like Cedar Key. The preparation and content usually improvised according to available seasonal ingredients. In France, fishermen would toss a portion of the days catch into the chaudiere, a large 3- legged iron cooking pot. Many food writers and food historians believe the word chowder is derived from this French cauldron. However, the 16th century English word jowter, which means fishmonger, is also a candidate. Native Americans of the Micmac tribe may have prepared the first chowders in North America. New England clam chowder is perhaps the most well known. Its preparation often provoked heated debate. In 1939, a purist or is that Puritan? - Introduced a bill to the Maine state legislature making it a statutory and culinary offence to introduce tomatoes into the traditional chowder recipe.

Chowders by their very nature encourage improvisation, its many variations depending on the region producing it. Chowders can be thick and creamy or thin and clear, white or red, yellow or beige. It is meant to be an unpretentious dish, accompanied by a crusty country loaf to mop up the broth, although some people, especially Downeasters, prefer crackers crumbled into the bowl.

Cod was perhaps the first fish to be used in chowders, but any fish can be substituted. Grouper, snapper and redfish all make delicious chowder, their firm flesh holding its shape in the simmering broth. Most chowders share three common ingredients, salt pork or bacon, sautéed onions and potatoes. From that base any combination of fish or shellfish can be added. Good stock is essential to the flavor and although it is the fiddliest part of the preparation, it is well worth the effort. Stock freezes well, so while you're at it cook up a large batch, Short of time cooks can use bottled clam juice and/or chicken broth, which is bland enough to blend well with seafood.

In the cool winter months, a bowl of steaming chowder soothes and satisfys. Whether baked, cooked at a slow simmer or assembled quickly, chowders are full of nourishing vitamins and minerals. After the overindulgences of the holiday season, they are palliatives for an overworked digestive system.